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Located on the Costa Dorada, Sitges is wildly popular among the southern Europe resorts, particularly with gay tourists. It gets very crowded during the summer, and most of the tourists at this time are young swinging Europeans. Yet Sitges never gets tacky, as so many gay-oriented resorts do.

Instead, Sitges is a city rich with culture and Bohemian ideals. The Spanish modernismo movement sprang from the artists and craftsmen here, and Sitges still is at the core of much of Spain's arts. Dali and Federico Garcia Lorca both visited here during the heyday of Sitges, which ended abruptly with the Spanish Civil War. Sitges is still a city of art, but it has never regained its prior prestige.

In addition to its rich heritage, Sitges is convenient to Barcelona (a 30-minute train trip or 45-minute drive).

What to Do

The Carnaval of Sitges, just before Lent, is a kaleidoscope of fancy dress, feathers and sequins, and vibrant floats. The King of the Carnestoltes starts the party on the Thursday prior to Lent, and the carnival ends on Ash Wednesday with the Burial of a Sardine. Sant Bonaventura is when the gay population of Sitges hold their own grand celebrations.

If you're gay, this is a perfect place to party while you vacation. Sitges has beaches and bars close together, but it's not so large that you get lost in the crowd. Summer and Carnival are the times to mingle with the gay crowd; in the off season, Sitges gets quiet.

During summer, though, one beach is primarily gay, while the other is very much a nudist beach, further out of town between Sitges and Vilanova. If you can't find the nude beach, stop at the L'Atlantida disco and ask for directions.

There are other beaches, of course, and water sports from swimming and sunbathing to waterskiing and scuba diving. The beaches to the east tend to be quieter -- Aiguadoic and Els Balomins are examples of these. The Playa San Sebastian, the Beach of the Boats, and Fragata Beach cater to families. The Playa de la Ribera is where the younger crowd go. All beaches here are top-optional for women.

For more intellectual pursuits, there are three excellent museums in Stiges. The Museu Cau Ferrat, in a building that was once two 16th century cottages, was Santiago Rusinol's home, and today holds his works as well as paintings by El Greco and some small Picassos. The Museu Maricel holds Gothic and Romantic paintings and sculptures as well as ceramics from Catalan. And the Museu Romantic, you can see how a Sitges family of wealth lived in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Where To Stay

San Sebastian Playa is probably the best hotel in Sitges. Located right across from San Sebastian beach, it has a wedding-cake facade and an Art Deco interior. Each guest room has a balcony overlooking the sea. Its amenities include a restaurant, bar, and private garden, as well as babysitting for anyone who needs it.

If you prefer to be inland, the Hotel El Xalet is a ten-minute walk from the nearest beach. This contemporary Modernista hotel almost looks like a Gothic church. Antique mosaics in the lobby give the hotel a unique atmosphere. You'll also find a small pool in the private garden and a refreshing roof terrace to have breakfast on. The restaurant is open only during the summer.

Where to Eat

El Velero, on a beachfront promenade, is one of the best restaurants in Sitges. The glass greenhouse terrace holds the best seats. The food is excellent, with a focus on fresh seafood.

With cocina del mercado, or whatever's fresh in the market, cuisine, Els Quatre Gats is named for an old Barcelona cafe that Picasso favored. Enjoy fresh grilled fish, lamb with local herbs, veal kidneys in sherry sauce, and garlic soup, this restaurant is sure to please your palate. And the restaurant's only a few steps away from Passeig de la Ribera.

Nightlife

The nightlife in Stiges is hectic, colorful, and primarily gay, so if you're straight you may have trouble finding a bar for you. Look for the maps that are distributed to show you where the gay bars are.

The largest gay disco bar is Mediterraneo, in a restored 1690s house. You'll love the covered terrace, the Iberian garden, and the company. Bourbon is another great gay bar for the younger set.

For a mixed crowd, try Ricky's Disco. It's near the beach, and has a really great dance mix.

Jakob Jelling is the founder of Eurotomic.com. Please visit http://www.eurotomic.com/spain.php if you're planning a trip to Spain.

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Ask Peter Englert whether he is a naturist and he appears a little taken aback. "I'm not quite sure what that is," he says. "When I'm on a nude beach I take my clothes off."

The suggestion that there is anything unusual about the desire to strip naked and hang around with a group of like-minded unclad devotees of the great outdoors is treated with reactions varying from surprise to mild annoyance by Britain's estimated one million naturists. If there is one thing that everyone in the world has in common, it is the fact that underneath our clothes we are all naked, they say.

Mr Englert knows more than most about the desire to relax in the all-together. The 70-year-old German-born entrepreneur has sold the naturist travel business he established 35 years ago in a pounds 1.8m deal with a company called Travelzest.

With a pounds 2.6m annual turnover, and claiming a 90 per cent share of the unclothed package travel market, Mr Englert's brainchild, Peng Travel, offers destinations in Europe, America and the Caribbean. As well as more conservative family holidays, its flagship resorts, Hedonism II and III, on Jamaica's seven-mile Negril beach, offer no-holds-barred adult fun - shorthand for a vibrant sex scene - where an all-inclusive 14 nights costs up to pounds 2,500.

Mr Englert founded the business around the time that Carry on Camping was linking nudism and the outdoors with the pursuit of sex in the minds of British cinema audiences. But it was frustration rather than raw ambition that was to be his inspiration.

"I was tired of being pushed around by bosses who pooh-poohed good business ideas I put forward, only to come up with identical ones themselves three months later," he said. "I thought I should go into business for myself."

But there was a problem: he didn't have any money. Scanning the international travel trade, he came across a German operator who was catering for 360,000 nude holidaymakers a year. It seemed to be the ideal niche market. "I thought, here is my opportunity. I don't have to spend millions on advertising against Cosmos and Thomsons. All I have to do is contact the 120 naturist clubs and send brochures and advertise in their two magazines."

Since then the market has grown dramatically. In an indication of just how mainstream naturism has come, Travelzest, an ambitious young company with plans to become a pounds 100m travel conglomerate, came knocking at the door. Its chief executive, Chris Mottershead, wants to tap into the market offered by Europe's 20 million to 25 million naturists.

"A huge number of people have tried nude sunbathing and are comfortable with it, and then there are the people who want to live in the nude. It seems to be a British thing to find it embarrassing- in Europe and other parts of the world it is not an issue," he said.

But there are problems. In the internet age many customers find naturist websites blocked because they are lumped together

The top five destinations

HEDONISM II AND III, Jamaica, above Adult-only resorts with the emphasis on sexuality. Activities range from the standard volleyball and aerobics to risqu contests and drinking games.

CAP D'AGDE, France Not a resort but an entire nudist city on the Mediterranean. Attracts 40,000 nudists at the height of the summer season.

LAKE COMO FAMILY NUDIST RESORT, Florida Established in 1947, it claims to be Florida's oldest nudist resort. Home to the Bare Buns Bikers and the annual Dare To Go Bare run.

PEVORSFARM COTTAGES, Essex A four-star resort in tranquil countryside, with an indoor heated swimming pool and secluded sunbathing areas, as well as a barbecue for the more sociable nudist.

COSTA NATURA, Spain Spain's first purpose-built nudist resort, near Marbella, with 200 apartments.